Olothang, Paro, Bhutan (October 7, 2012) – I have this strange karma, I’ve spoken about it before, to find myself alone in luxury. Solitude in five star hotel rooms, nights alone in chateaus, romantic getaways for one, sleeping single in a bungalow in Tulum. And here I am again, tapping at my computer in a vast acre of a flat overlooking Paro Valley.
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The wandering is over, except the wandering of my own corridors. I can say I live in Bhutan now, in an apartment with a view and a kitchen. I unpacked all my suitcases and bought milk and honey. Of the three beds to choose from, for now I’m testing out the master suite. It is a ridiculous expanse of bedroom territory, warm with wood walls and floors and ceilings. I have Sally and Yann to thank for finding this place, which I took sight unseen. It used to be a restaurant, they tell me. Now it’s my home and that feels strange.
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Today I watched how the shadows move across the rooms, taking mental notes. There is a perfect rectangle on my bed in the morning when I sit. Midday when the sun is overhead, the house falls into shadow and I need a sweater. But the kitchen has good sun in the afternoon. I am listening closely, what will my world sound like now? There are masses of cicadas in the trees around the house, there is a school up the hill and the students can be heard laughing during breaks, there was a man whistling and yodeling a Bhutanese song at the crack of dawn a few houses over. I’ve stashed two ticking clocks in the pantry because I don’t do ticking clocks. Dogs are barking outside or it wouldn’t be Bhutan. Ours are named Snowy, Laya and the black one, I think they call him Robert.
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